Mexico City
This congested city of 20 million extends as far as the eye can see, but thankfully much of the business activity is concentrated in central colonias (neighborhoods) like Polanco.
| Readers’ Choice Four Seasons. Spacious rooms look out into a central courtyard of manicured shrubs and bubbling fountains, making this luxury staple an oasis in the heart of the metropolis, situated on the Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City’s main boulevard. The city’s political and business elites are regulars at the breakfast buffet in the hotel’s English-style tearoom. Rooms start at $320. www.fourseasons.com/mexico |
Sleeping
Our Favorite
Camino Real. This labyrinthine complex designed by world-renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta set an oft-copied standard for Mexican architecture when it was built in 1968. Quartz benches and a swirling fountain complete the hotel’s concept as a piece of functional art, while an array of cool restaurants and bars offer refuge in a chaotic city. This is where the A-list – think Mel Gibson – stay when they’re in town. Rooms start at $185.
www.caminoreal.com
JW Marriott. Elegance and location are key at this Marriott on Mexico City’s hotel row in the upscale Polanco neighborhood. Rich embroidered fabrics and dark wood furniture give the joint an ultra-classy vibe. Also, the entrance to Mexico’s prestigious members-only Club de Industriales is in the hotel lobby. Sneak upstairs for a peak at unbelievable artwork by Mexican impressionist masters, or get a client to book breakfast at the club, to which most major Mexican corporations belong. Rooms start at $209.
www.marriott.com
W Mexico City. The hammock in the bathroom is a nice touch at this, the first W in Latin America. The martini bar downstairs is often packed with men in suits, but few dames. Rooms start at $200.
www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels
Boutique
La Casona. This cozy 29-room hotel is an ode to Mexico’s long-standing love affair with all things French. The antique-filled mansion sits in the quiet but centrally located Roma Norte neighborhood, where local residents stroll down wide promenades and munch on crepes in sidewalk cafes. Rooms start at $200.
www.hotellacasona.com.mx
CondesaDF. Jet setters like Paris Hilton and Damien Hirst have sampled this new boutique hotel housed in a remodeled fin de siècle building in the trendy Condesa neighborhood. Each room is unique, and the accommodations are a hop-skip-and-jump from dozens of neighborhood bars and restaurants. Rooms start at $165.
www.condesadf.com
| Downtime Xochimilco. For a taste of ancient Tenochtitlán, head to this Mexico City neighborhood for a boat tour of what remains of the city’s once elaborate canal network. Splurge for a few serenades from the mariachis floating by, but skip the temptation to sample tacos prepared lovingly by women in skiffs (and hopefully avoid a case of Moctezuma’s revenge). After the 30-minute ride – best done in the morning – head over to the nearby Dolores Olmedo Museum for lunch in its picturesque, sun-drenched café. After sampling tasty regional Mexican favorites like sopes and tostadas de cochinita pibil (pulled pork tostadas) in the garden of one of Diego Rivera’s lifelong patrons, take in Olmedo’s collection of Rivera and Frida Kahlo paintings (Avenida México 5843, near the Noria light rail stop, Tel: 52 55 5555 0891). |
Relaxing
Tepoztlán. For a breath of fresh air, escape to this quaint village nestled between mountains an hour south of the city. Day-trippers browse the goods that vendors set up on cobblestone streets, and kick back for a long Mexican lunch. The more adventurous throw on outdoor gear and hike up to the small ruins that overlook this town, which supposedly had cosmic energy. For whatever reason, cell phone service is spotty at best in Tepoztlán.
Eating
Restaurante Lamm. This teak-decked open-air eatery overlooks a tranquil garden in the middle of the Casa Lamm cultural center, which is housed in an early twentieth century mansion. Best visited for breakfast, the restaurant’s nouveau Mexican menu also makes for an interesting lunch or dinner (Álvaro Obregón 99, Roma, Tel: 52 55 5514 8501).
Naos. Lobster, carpaccio, ceviche and potent cocktails are on offer at this hot new venue frequented by Mexican socialites (Palmas 425, Lomas de Chapultepec, Tel: 52 55 5205 5702).
Hunan. Mexico City is generally weak on Asian fare, but this upscale Chinese restaurant is a power lunch standard (Reforma 2210, Lomas de Chapultepec, Tel: 52 55 5596 5011).
Ivoire. Decorated as a plantation house, this relative newcomer taps into the cuisine of former French colonies, offering everything from Vietnamese spring rolls to Moroccan couscous (Emilio Castelar, Polanco, Tel: 52 55 5280 6912).
Drinking
Condesa Crawl. This art deco neighborhood is a staple for the thirty-something cool crowd. Ditch the suit before visiting the rooftop lounge at trendy Condesa DF (Veracruz 102), then go bar hopping on nearby Nuevo León avenue, to frolic in the forever packed Pata Negra or low-lit Cafeina. Elsewhere, in the Camino Real hotel (Mariano Escobedo 700), Moon Bar hosts outdoor parties with some of the world’s hottest DJs. For something totally different and low-key, head to the historic city center to scope out a bank vault turned speakeasy at Zinco Jazz Club (Motolinia 20).
Shopping
Mexican kitsch – painted metal devotional plaques praising famous wrestlers and Virgin Mary belt buckles – is on hand at El Milagrito (Mazatlan 152-A, Condesa), which puts a fun spin on traditional handicrafts. Nearby, the NaCo clothing store (Yautepec 126) hawks hipster garb like T-shirts that read: I Love DF.
In the timeless yet edgy Roma neighborhood is the enchanting fine tea salon Caravanserai (Orizaba 101), where customers sip imported teas on silk-covered platform beds. Allergy note: the owners’ cat and Boston Terrier will undoubtedly be lounging in the shop. A few paces down on Álvaro Obregón is Caravanserai’s sister store, Des Folies de Mon Corps, where in-house stylists help customers sift through cutting edge clothes, shoes and jewelry from Mexican designers. After picking out a new wardrobe, patrons can get an asymmetrical haircut to match their new, urban chic look.
Monterrey
The temperatures in this industrial city just south of Texas hit extreme highs and lows, but the people are beautiful and the small historic center has been carefully maintained.
Sleeping
Quinta Real. A colonial-style design – including original oil paintings – sets the tone at this all-suites hotel where the bounteous breakfast buffet gets high marks. Check out the view from the health spa hot tub. Rooms start at $195.
www.quintareal.com
Fiesta Americana Centro Monterrey. Hovering over a picturesque plaza in Monterrey’s historic center, this Fiesta Americana has all the business necessities and yet is in one of the few pedestrian parts of town. On hot days, the pool is an especially welcome perk. Rooms start at $95.
www.fiestaamericana.com
Presidente InterContinental. In the heart of the business district, just five minutes from downtown, this hotel offers free Internet service and a 24-hour business center. Rooms start at $109.
www.ichotelsgroup.com
Eating
La Casa del Maiz. The casually hip patronize this intimate restaurant serving up pre-Hispanic Mexican food. Squash leaves, blue corn and ice-cream-filled peaches are among the offerings on the menu (Abasolo 870, Barrio Antiguo, Tel: 52 81 8340 4332).
Iannilli. This elegant, intimate restaurant dishes up Italian classics in a patio setting (Dr Coss Sur 1221, Barrio Antiguo,
Tel: 52 81 8342 7200.