Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires has left the dark days of economic crisis far behind. But with the peso still weak and hoteliers and restaurateurs in ebullient mood, the Argentine capital is again one of the best cities to find yourself doing business in Latin America.

Sleeping

  Readers’ Choice
Four Seasons. One of the city’s most luxurious properties scores top marks with our readers. Everything you would expect, plus a heated outdoor pool located in front of a Louis XIII-style mansion. Spa staff attentively offer a selection of hot teas while you swim. Rooms start at $310. www.fourseasons.com

Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt. This mansion with restored oak floors, antique chandeliers and 1930s’ carved wood paneling raises the bar for luxury. All rooms have personal safes with built-in laptop chargers, marble baths and butler service. There is also a wine library with cheese room and terrace dining overlooking gardens beautifully landscaped by Carlos Thays, designer of the city’s botanical gardens. Rooms start at $410 for a park deluxe. www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com

Alvear Palace. An icon of traditional luxury with modern conveniences. The Alvear offers a welcome “jet lag massage” to arriving guests, butler service and fresh flowers daily. Its French restaurant, Bourgogne is one of the best in the city. Rooms start at $550. www.alvearpalace.com

InterContinental. Conveniently located in the Montserrat area of downtown Buenos Aires, this modern hotel offers all the usual business class perks. The average room rate is $190. www.ichotelsgroup.com.

Faena Hotel + Universe. This Philippe Starck velvet-and-glam hotspot is a little self-consciously cool, but cool nonetheless. Modern rooms, all with home theater systems and enormous bathrooms. Kick-start your day with coffee in the library lounge, which has a wood burning fire and a selection of more than 500 books. Dine at the slick, all-white, unicorn-adorned Bistro. Average room rate is $350. www.faenaexperience.com

Bo Bo Hotel. An urban boutique hotel in a converted 1920s mansion set amidst the ivy covered houses and cobbled streets of Palermo Soho. It is attached to a hip restaurant offering generous portions of contemporary Argentine food. Rooms start at $150. www.bobohotel.com

Eating
Casa Cruz. Behind polished brass doors, and beyond a small but lively bar, this restaurant delivers superb food. We recommend the almond gazpacho with roasted figs, parma ham and basil crisps, and the grilled octopus with passion fruit puree, basil crumble and chorizo oil. Reservations at this unmarked venue are essential. (Uriarte 1658, Palermo Viejo. Tel: 54 11 4833 1112).

Nectarine. Tucked away on the first floor of an art nouveau house, this little gem offers modern French cuisine with a menu that changes every six weeks. Hope that it has the lamb with vegetable ragout. The wine list should satisfy even the pickiest connoisseur. (Vicente López 1661, Recoleta. Tel: 54 11 4813 6993).

Thymus. Young chef Fernando Mayoral has won numerous accolades for his innovative dishes –roasted quail with quince jelly and homemade ricotta, for example – served in the former studio of sculptor Martín Vergara. (Lerma, 525, Palermo. Tel: 54 11 4772 1936).

Bar Uriarte. One of our favorites. Sleek and comfortable, Bar Uriarte offers an excellent menu and wine list. The perfect place to have a leisurely lunch, especially in the winter. Get a seat by the warmth of the huge clay pizza oven and feast on homemade ravioles de ternera con jugo de carne. (Uriarte. 1572. Tel: 54 11 4834 6004).

Duhau Restaurant & Vinoteca. The cozy restaurant emphasizes seasonal produce in elegantly simple dishes. Service is impeccable. Move through to the fireplace in Vinoteca for an introduction to the best artisanal regional cheeses selected by the Maitre Fromager and the greatest of Argentine Malbecs. (Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt. Tel: 54 11 5171 1340).

El Obrero. For something a little less sophisticated but perhaps even more Argentine, keep your wits about you and head for dinner in La Boca. El Obrero’s small dinning room gets packed with locals dining on Puchero – a stew of brisket, sausage, calabaza, potatoes and corn – washed down with free-flowing wine. (Agustín R. Caffarena, 64 La Boca. Tel: 54 11 4362 9912).

Drinking
Gran Bar Danzon can be hard to spot – there’s no sign – but tucked away on the first floor, you’ll find it bursting with sophisticated urbanites and more than 200 bottles on offer. (Libertad 1161, Tribunales.) A great spot for after-work drinks is Opera Bay, a Puerto Madero restaurant, bar and dockside dance club. And for classic modishness merged with modern art, try Milión, a laid back bar spread over three floors in a restored art nouveau mansion with an outdoor garden. (Paraná, 1048, Recoleta).

Downtime
El Zanjon – Buenos Aires. A one hour tour of this excavated tenement site beneath a 175-year-old mansion unravels the village that became Buenos Aires and reveals the network of tunnels where the Rio de la Plata once flowed. Every hour from 10am to 6pm. Admission $20. (Tel: 54 11 4361 3022. www.elzanjon.com).

Polo (and Hunting) on the Pampas. An hour drive south of Buenos Aires is Estancia El Rocio, a luxurious working ranch. Polo clinics are held by champion level staff for $300-$400 per day. Or if Hunting is more your thing you can shoot duck, pigeon, tortorelas or even Axis deer. (www.estanciaelrocio.com)

Useful Information
Time Difference (EST/GMT): +2/-3
Exchange Rate: $1=3.1 pesos (March 2007)
Voltage: 220
Public Holidays:
2 Apr – Malvinas Day
6 Apr – Good Friday
8 Apr – Easter Sunday
9 Apr – Easter Monday
1 May – Labour Day
25 May – First Government Day
19 Jun – Belgrano Day
9 Jul – Independence Day
21 Aug – San Martin Day
16 Oct – Columbus Day
2 Nov – All Souls Day
8 Dec – Immaculate Conception
25 Dec – Christmas Day