Montevideo
Even though it’s a big city, there’s a slowness – and even an old-fashioned formality – to Montevideo. Like Buenos Aires, dining and entertaining go late into the night. If you’re a meat-eater, this is the city of opportunity. An FAO study says Uruguay tops the world in per-capita consumption of beef, mutton and lamb: 46 kilos a year.
Sleeping
Belmont House. The problem with this gracious little hotel is getting a reservation. Four-poster beds, beautiful linens, marble detail and a long list of extras – including towel warmers in the bathrooms – confirm the feeling that you’re being pampered. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a room overlooking the courtyard. Afternoon tea is taken seriously at the Belmont. Room rates start at $150 – with breakfast. www.belmonthouse.com.uy
Radisson Montevideo Victoria Plaza. The hotel’s “business traveler’s package” includes a room with highspeed Internet, a buffet breakfast, a free newspaper, free valet parking and an upgrade to a suite if one’s available. Other pluses: a casino, a spa and a good location. www.radisson.com/montevideouy
Relaxing
Four Seasons Resort Carmelo. You’d never know you were in South America – much less the Uruguay town of Carmelo. This resort is built to resemble a Bali-like paradise. With 17th century Asian artwork, seaweed wraps and a leopard-inspired Shiva lounge, this is one-of-a-kind in the region. Riverfront bungalows with outdoor showers, fireplaces, canopy-netted beds and sensual décor are straight out of the Kama Sutra. The 72-par golf course is a mere afterthought. Rooms from $330 to $445. The resort is a three-hour drive from Montevideo, but there are also flights to Carmelo’s airport, where the hotel’s 1928 Buick limousine picks up guests. www.fourseasons.com
Eating
Las Brasas. Beef, beef and more beef. The filet de lomo is the best cut, but no matter what you order you won’t leave hungry. This is a casual spot and it’s always busy at lunch. Check the walls to see if you can spot the photo of Hillary Clinton with the staff. At San José 909; phone: 598-2-900-2285.
Basseri. Montevideo’s outstanding Basque restaurant is unbeatable when it comes to seafood. The eels (angulas a la vasca) are a house specialty and one well worth trying. For dessert, the plum cake with brandy is a must. Julio Herrera y Reisig 957; phone: 598-2-400-0262.
El Viejo y el Mar. With all that beef around, most people forget that Uruguay has a fishing tradition, too. This restaurant excels at seafood. The bar is made from an abandoned boat and the rest of the décor is intensely maritime. El Viejo y el Mar sits on the waterfront at Rambla Gandhi 400 and its outdoor patio is open most of the year; phone: 598-2-710-5704.
Panini’s. Dive into the homemade Italian pasta at this lovely eatery. And make sure you take advantage of its extensive cellar of Uruguayan wine. Panini’s is a long-time favorite among locals and visitors. There are two branches. The Old City one is at Bacacay 1339; phone: 598-2-916-8760.
Arcadia. The elegant restaurant on the 25th floor of the Plaza Victoria offers quiet nooks with windows where you can discuss business privately but still have a view of the city. The menu features exotic offerings like pheasant marinated in cognac and duck confit in strudel pastry, but the costillar de cordero a la menta – grilled rack of lamb with mint – is one of the house specialties. Plaza Independencia 759; phone: 598-2-902-0111.
Drinking
Happy hour at W Lounge is a local tradition; the balcony is the place to be for dancing. At Rambla Wilson and Requina; phone: 598-2-712-1177. Local bands play at Perdidos en la Noche, a classic downtown watering hole at 1095 Calle Aquiles Lanza; phone: 598-2-903-2462. Candombe – Afro-Uruguayan music and dance – is the lure at Cuareim, at Zelmar Michelini 1079; phone: 598-2-902-6320.
Shopping
This is less about what to buy as it is where to buy: Mercado Tristán Narvaja. Every Sunday, vendors spread a bounty of ostentatious, offbeat and even outrageous items along 30 blocks of Tristán Narvaja Street. Tucked among the old postcards are valuable antiques. Keep an eye out for jewelry. Precious and semi-precious stones – including topaz and amethyst – can be spotted and picked up for discounts, sometimes in lovely antique settings.