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Montevideo
Latin America’s southernmost capital is also one of its most charming. Montevideo is one of the safest cities on the continent. Dining and entertainment start late and for diehard carnivores, it is a paradise rivaled only by its neighbor across the River Plate.
Sleeping
| Sheraton Montevideo. In the residential area of Punta Carretas and linked by a walkway to the Punta Carretas shopping center, this hotel is our reader’s favorite. Rooms have breathtaking views of the bay, high-speed internet, gym, indoor swimming pool and two jacuzzis on the sundeck. The lobby bar is also a fine spot for casual meetings and after-work drinks. Average room rate $215. www.starwoodhotels.com |
Belmont House. Located in Carrasco, the quieter side of Montevideo, the house is home to portraits by Juan Manuel Blanes and an antique collection. Rooms have been individually decorated, some with four poster beds, jacuzzis and wonderful open fireplaces. The best rooms overlook a courtyard, and afternoon tea is a serious undertaking. Getting a reservation at this charming hotel can be difficult. Rooms start at $160. www.belmonthouse.com.uy
Radisson Montevideo Victoria Plaza. Situated at the heart of the financial and commercial district, on Plaza Independencia, and a short distance to museums and historic landmarks. Rooms are spacious and have high-speed internet. The business center also provides a multilingual secretarial service. Other amenities include a casino, spa, semi-Olympic swimming pool and 100-meter jogging track. Average room rate is $145. www.radisson.com
Four Points by Sheraton. This relatively new hotel is conveniently located downtown, close to the old city. Rooms are large and modern with spacious bathrooms, jacuzzis and excellent views of the city. Average king room rate is $92. www.starwoodhotels.com
Cala di Volpe. This boutique hotel faces the ocean in the Rambla area of the city. Rooms are simply decorated with dark wood furniture and have spectacular views. All have high-speed internet and the hotel is conveniently located near the Punta Carretas shopping center. The Corner Suite is recommended, starting at $170. www.hotelcaladivolpe.com.uy
Eating
La Silenciosa. Once a Jesuit convent in the old city, this historic building is home to a fine restaurant with great food, and service to match. The rack of lamb is cooked to perfection. (Ciudad Vieja 1430, Ituzaingó. Tel: 598 2 915 94 09).
Da’ Pentella. This family-run, century-old restaurant is one of the best in Punta Carretas. It offers a superb menu, from fresh pasta served with delicate sauces to the heartier roast pig or stuffed rabbit. (Luis de la Torre 598, Punta Carretas. Tel: 598 2 712 09 81).
La Perdiz. A favorite with locals, this busy little eatery offers an excellent traditional menu of seafood and meat dishes. The baby squid in garlic and olive oil is a favorite. (Guipúzcoa 350, esquina Balineas. Tel: 598 2 711 8963).
El Palenque. The paternal gastronomical team of this delightful restaurant brings together the local parrilla with the traditional Spanish meson. Great sausages and kidneys. For something lighter, try the calamaris sautéed with onion, washed down with a refreshing glass of Albariño. (Peatonal Pérez Castellano, Mercado del Puerto. Tel: 598 2 915 4704).
Drinking
Happy hour at W Lounge in the Parque Rodó neighborhood, at Rambla Wilson and Requina, is a local tradition that patrons spice-up by dancing on the balcony. Live music is the draw at Perdidos en la Noche, a downtown watering hole (1095 Calle Aquiles Lanza), while Tango and Candombe – Afro-Uruguayan music and dance – is the lure at Cuareim (Zelmar Michelini 1079). A noteworthy Tango club is La Casa de Becho, (Nueva York 1415).
The old city comes alive well after dark. Around the Peatonal Sarandí, some of our favorites are Viejo Rincón (Calle Rincón between Bartolomé Mitre and Juan Carlos Gómez), Apartado (Buenos Aires 527 on the corner of Ituizaingó), Kalu (Juan Carlos Gomez 1323) and Mariachi, (Gabriel Pereira 2964).
| Downtime |
Teatro Solís. This theater and opera house opened in 1852 and was restored in 1998. It is the host to many cultural events and well worth a visit. It is also the site to the National Museum of Natural history (Calle Buenos Aires 652). Tel: 598 2 916 0908 www.teatrosolis.org.uy
A Day At The Races. Gauchos may rule supreme in the countryside, but in town it’s the jockeys who hold the whip. Uruguay is a world-class breeder of thoroughbreds, and you can see them in action at the newly rebuilt Hipódromo de Maroñas racetrack in Montevideo. There are horse races every Saturday, Sunday and holidays. For racing schedules, visit: www.maronas.com.uy.
Carmelo is the home to the Four Seasons resort and Dove shooting. Set among soaring pine trees, this beautiful resort is one of Uruguay’s finest. Activities include an 18-hole golf course, spa, tennis, riding and shooting. Rooms start at $310. www.fourseasons.com/carmelo or contact www.rodgunresources.com/uruguay-dove-hunting/uruguay-dove-hunting.shtm
Mantra Punta del Este Resort Spa & Casino. On a hill overlooking Punta del Este beach resort, this Mediterranean-style luxury getaway provides the perfect retreat. All suites come with wood-burning fireplaces, designer bedding and large marble bathrooms. Guests can dine on the Mantra’s private terrace, poolside or anywhere on the landscaped grounds. The hotel’s Balance Spa offers a dizzying array of treatments, and blackjack is the game of choice in the casino. Average room rate is $275. www.mantraresort.com For culture in Punta del Estate, visit the Hotel L’Auberge and listen to a recital in the Jardin de L’Auberge. Visit www.laubergehotel.com for the latest schedule.
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Useful Information
Time Difference (from EST and GMT): +1/-3
Exchange Rate: $1= 24.25 Uruguayan New Peso (March 2007)
Voltage: 220
Public Holidays:
April 5 – Maundy Thursday
April 6 – Good Friday
April 8 -Easter Sunday
April 19 – Landing Day of the 33 Patriots
May 1 – Labor Day
May 18 – Battle of the Stones’ Day
June 19 – General Artigas’ Birthday
July 18 – Constitution Day
August 25 – Independence Day
October 12 – Columbus Day
November 2 – All Souls’ Day
December 25 – Christmas Day
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